The Land Where Light Is Born
At the top of the Calabazo Trail, nestled among crystal-clear rivers, cloud-capped mountains, and ancient trails, lies Bunkuany – also known as Bunkuany Yaja or Shaxa (Zhaxa) – a place that, for indigenous peoples, represents a place of light.
Here, light is not just a physical phenomenon: it is clarity, balance, and spiritual connection. This is a land where the mountains speak, where the stones tell stories, and where the energy of the ancestors can still be felt pulsing.
Our First Encounter with Bunkuany: A Personal Memoir
We first visited Bunkuany in the year 2018, long before there was a defined trail or an established route, it is worth noting that since the 1965 Few people knew about the place anymore.
Back then, it took between two and a half hours, almost three hours on the road, crossing cattle pastures covered with grass that was taller than two and a half meters tall.
There was no path. It literally didn't exist. We had to clear a path through the vegetation, pushing aside branches, dodging ticks, and feeling our way through a landscape that, though challenging, already gave off a special energy. When we finally arrived, the first thing that stood out were the ancient remains: Blurred terraces nestled among the hills, rocks bearing clear signs of human intervention, and, at the same time, the painful traces of a past marked by looting.
You could see the mark of the antiquing, that dark period in Colombia when the desecration of indigenous graves became common practice.
Crops were growing among the terraces avocado, banana, and cacao, interspersed with trees of guarumo and other local species that were gradually reclaiming the territory. After the pandemic, toward the end of the 2021 and early 2022, Bunkuany began to take shape as a project: first as an academic initiative, and then as a community-driven process that was gradually coming to fruition.
The land began to open up again, not only as a physical space, but as a place of memory, light, and deep reflection. Everything we know today about Bunkuany—its paths, its territorial interpretation, its spiritual connection—was born from that contrast between abandonment, the force of nature, and the determination of the people who have worked to care for it.
That first visit in 2018 still serves as a reminder to me of what it means to walk through these places with respect: LThe mountain always speaks, but only those who listen patiently can understand it.
What is Bunkuany? Ancestral memory carved in stone
Bunkuany is an archaeological site consisting of ancient terraces, retaining walls, paths, and platforms designed with the masterful engineering of the Tayrona people.
Unlike other archaeological sites, this one was not a massive city: Its function would have been spiritual, ceremonial, and related to pilgrimage. Among the dense vegetation, one can still find:
Stone-leveled terraces
Carved staircases
Paths that connect to other sacred routes
Viewpoints overlooking mountains and rivers
Areas that show evidence of ritual or community use
The landscape blends archaeology with living history, because the area continues to be inhabited and protected by farming families and indigenous communities.
A Special Location: The Upper Part of Calabazo
Bunkuany is located in a a unique natural corridor. Heading up from Santa Marta through the Bonda or Calabazo area, the trail passes through:
Traditional Estates
Native forest and restoration areas
Natural Viewpoints
Crystal-clear ravines
Ancient Stone Paths
The mountainous terrain creates an intimate, quiet atmosphere, perfect for experiencing the place in a respectful way.
Bunkuany: The Meaning of “Place of Light”
For the indigenous peoples of the Sierra Nevada, certain places are considered energy points, where the balance of the land is most strongly evident. The words “Bunkuany Zhaxa / Yaja,” associated with light, clarity, or essence, reveal that this was a hub, possibly for:
Harmonizing Thoughts
Make payments or hold ceremonies
Receive spiritual guidance
Hold ritual gatherings
Organize the territory
Visiting this site is like stepping into a space where Indigenous spirituality is still alive.
Terraces: An Ancient Design in the Service of the Spirit
Bunkuany's terraces are impressive for their:
Stability
Masonry Techniques
Circular and oval shapes
Landscape Orientation
Relationship with Water
They may look like simple walls, but they are the result of a deep understanding of the land: how water flows, how the earth shifts, and how space is organized for thought and spiritual life.
Living Nature: The Environment That Protects Bunkuany
The journey to Bunkuany is a sensory experience:
Cold, crystal-clear rivers
Natural pools that are perfect for cooling off
Forests teeming with birds
Mountain Breeze
Sounds of Water and Leaves
The Sierra Nevada envelops the route with its biodiversity and profound silence.
Our experience connecting travelers with Bunkuany
Since we opened, we have accompanying travelers to this site, through community-based tourism initiatives, mindful hikes, and local experiences.
Over time, we've learned that every trip is different: The weather, the steps we take, the conversations, and the mountain itself all set the pace.
Bunkuany in 2026
Why is this tour unique?
The road to Bunkuany is unique because it combines elements that are rarely found together in the same area: ALiving archaeology, indigenous memory, the power of nature, and a genuine community-driven process.
It's not overcrowded or overly commercialized; it retains the authentic feeling of discovering an old place for the first time.
Here, the mountain reveals the marks left by time: ancient terraces, traces of tomb raiders, modern crops, and the forest’s rebirth.
Bunkuany is a place of light, a sacred place for indigenous peoples where the energy of the land can still be felt.
Walking there means exploring a place that wasn't built for tourism, but rather for to be respected, understood, and protected.
That's why every step becomes a profound, intimate experience unlike any other in the Sierra Nevada.
Light on the Mountain
Bunkuany is a site that invites you to feel, not just to see.
Every terrace, every stone, and every river holds ancient messages, preserved by the land and by those who have protected it for centuries.
Here, the mountain speaks not in words, but in silences: in the light that falls on the terraces, in the murmur of the water, and in the memories that are awakened in those who walk with respect.
Because Bunkuany isn't a place you visit… it's a place you listen to.
And whoever listens understands.
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